Coney Island – NY
After the remoteness and somewhat strangeness of Pennsylvannia we arrived in NYC. I wanted to see more than Manhattan and had read some interesting stuff about Coney Island, a beach resort in Brooklyn, and only 40 minutes from Downtown Manhattan on the subway. ince the early 1800s, Coney Island, “playground of the world,” has played many roles in the lives and imagination of New Yorkers and the world. From its beginnings as a quiet seaside town, Coney Island went on to boom years in the 1880s, as entrepreneurs rushed to stake their claims and make their fortunes. The area enjoyed brief stability in the late 1890’s and early 1900’s but with the Great Depression, Coney Island transformed once again. The area became a “Nickel Empire” of cheap amusements; a nickel paid the fare on the new subway line, and visitors were greeted by the original Nathan’s Famous, home of the five-cent hot dog. The amusement parks struggled to stay afloat and Coney Island began to experience hard economic times. Nevertheless, Coney Island continued to provide an accessible and affordable opportunity for a diverse population, always looming large in the history of New York.
Today, Coney Island is in the midst of a revival, spurred by public, private and community initiatives. But not all welcome this ‘regeneration’ and there are already plans to build skyscrapers and open Starbucks on every block. Some locals feel that Coney Island has been left to deteriorate and that the developers were simply waiting in the background ready to pounce and start land grabbing. I never realised there was a beach 40 minutes away from Downtown Manhattan and I guess not many other tourists knew this, but they soon will…
We arrived on the busiest day of the year, the Mermaid Parade. The Mermaid Parade celebrates the sand, the sea, the salt air and the beginning of summer, as well as the history and mythology of Coney Island, Coney Island pride, and artistic self-expression. The Parade is characterized by participants dressed in hand-made costumes as Mermaids, Neptunes, various sea creatures, the occasional wandering lighthouse, Coney Island post card or amusement ride, as well as antique cars, marching bands, drill teams, and the odd yacht pulled on flatbed.
Each year, a different celebrity King Neptune and Queen Mermaid rule over the proceedings, riding in the Parade and assisting in the opening of the Ocean for the summer swimming season by marching down the Beach from the Boardwalk, cutting through Ribbons representing the seasons, and tossing fruit into the Atlantic to appease the Sea Gods. In the past, David Byrne, Queen Latifah, and Moby have been King or Queen. Noteable this year was that some of the floats were protesting with ‘No Starbucks’ and ‘Save Coney Island’ placards and they got the loudest cheers from the crowd, (except for the topless mermaids…)
You can view my USA slideshow here
